Be-1 and PAO Engine & Mechanicals

General Hints and Repairs




                                           THE 996cc BE-1 ENGINE 

Engine Specifications and details are located on the FACTS Page.

I think all my Be-1's arrived with various mechanical maladies ... ranging from leaking vacuum pipes and hoses, to just plain lack of performance.

Generally seem to have problems with dead spots, where the engine would just die away and lose all power.. which doesn't exactly give you confidence when your trying to get across traffic when it chooses to do this.. The good news is that you can get them to run really well without too much work...

  ← Modified MA10..Fitted with 4 motorcycle carburetors


This page offers common repair hints for the Be-1 and the Pao


Radiator and Cooling

  Be-1's have marginal engine cooling... many motorcycles have bigger radiators with more air exposure.. The Be-1 radiator is tiny and pretty much buried behind metal making cooling difficult.. The radiator has been purposely designed to be only has two rows of cooling channels...  so the engine reaches operating temperature quickly from cold... engine exhaust emissions are minimised. Looks like this was the design criteria. Too bad that it doesn't handle high ambient temperatures so well. The radiator as fitted is not your friend and was probably designed by Toyota or some other competitor to Nissan

I have to drive in 37 - 40C (105F) heat every summer and manage by keeping a close eye on the temperature guage. There is no problem unless you get caught up in the combination of heavy traffic, hot weather, and hilly terrain. This can make the temp gauge slowly head for the H end..  Maybe pull over and give it some time to cool is the answer..  Overheating an engine often results in permanent damage

.. If you have a car that is running hot, I would advise removing the A/C  condenser radiator to make a bigger space ..and also strongly consider going to a wrecking yard and getting a radiator out of something else..that is larger than the original and will roughly fit in the space provided.. and mount it ... large cable ties will probably work well enough to hold it in place. If you do this make sure the radiator is lower than the top of the engine by a few inches Or it will not work... something to do with physics... Hoses can be sorted out by bothering your local car parts place to go through their collection.

Engine Rebuild

One of my cars just seemed flat in the performance department, despite trying to massage more power out of it,nothing made any difference.
Attention to detail such as the ignition point gap and the condition of the points and distributor cap, and a fiddle with the ignition timing....... usually resulted in a bit more pep. .  I decided that it was related to engine compression and pulled down the engine reluctantly to replace the piston rings..

A lack of performance coupled with oil leaks after a long run indicated a possible piston ring issue....  Gasses leaking past the rings were causing pressure in the crankcase and pushing oil out of the breather pipe.

I removed the engine cylinder head and sump and removed the pistons and connecting rods. All pistons had broken top rings..

Each piston has two sets of compression piston rings and one oil control ring. The engine was quite low mileage which was evident in the condition of the ring wear should not have been a problem..The post mortem indicated the rings had probably become lightly bonded to the cylinder bore after a long period of non use...probably over a winter.. . Piston rings are made of cast iron and are very brittle... they would have been subject to a big twisting force when the car was started after the lay up... and snapped.  

The cost of the parts ( genuine Nissan parts were used) from Amayama Trading Co was surprisingly extremely low, about $130 total. This included gaskets, piston rings, misc studs, nuts and bolts.

The MA 10 engine under the Be-1 bonnet is common to the Nissan March (Japan) and Micra (UK)  Obtaining parts was no problem through Amayama,  I have a copy of  the Nissan Be-1 parts manual and Nissan Factory workshop manual (in Japanese) which was a great help as I could make out the torque figures and of course the diagrams were invaluable.  I really needed the parts manual for the smaller items to obtain the correct part numbers, as the online catalogue of my supplier only had a description - no illustrations (Bummer) The UK Nissan Micra K10 model workshop manual will get you through any mechanical work... If you look, there is a copy for free on the net.

The UK Micra engine doesn't have the anti pollution controls that riddle, overheat and congest the some detail will be missing.  

If your car has been laid up it is advisable to jack one wheel of the ground... if its a manual... put it into 5th gear and try and turn the engine over by turning the road wheel.. rock it gently back and forth. If its tight.. pull the plugs and squirt engine oil/penetrene or even turps or a bit of petrol and oil mix in there and wait a day.

Reassembling was straightforward ...  The basic requirement in a job like this is to dismantle parts methodically... undo large items in a correct sequence - ie start from the extreme ends and work your way to the centre in a diagonal. Return bolts to the holes they were removed from in a cleaned and dry condition - no oil or grease if they have to be torqued up... to spend time cleaning all gasket faces thoroughly and to Torque down vital parts with care and in correct sequence. Use a quality silicone where you do use one... permatex, locktite, hylomar products I have a high quality torque wrench which is essential, apart from that, and a ring compressor, basic tools will do the job. If you don't have a ring compressor the tall skinny Heinz soup cans are almost exactly the same size as the small pistons (67mm).

  It was a straightforward job. The timing belt side was the most difficult area to work because the very limited room. It may be easier to completely remove the engine if contemplating an overhaul. It started straight away when I had it back together, no leaks and a very quiet engine....

Replacing the rings made a BIG improvement in engine performance.... A Be-1 engine in fine health, is a jolly and spritely device that will rev cheerfully to 6,750 RPM plus, and thrive on it.  If you have a Be-1 and this description doesn't sound like yours... well, the potential is there.

A standard Be1 in good health delivers about 55BHP at 6,250 RPM

Ignition timing on Be-1s

I have mine set at about 10 degs B.T.D.C.  vacuum line connected.- this seems to suit the 5 speed with its tall gearing very well. The Factory setting is this : 15 Degs before top dead centre, plus or minus 5 degrees vacuum line connected, OR 24 degrees plus or minus 2 degrees no vacuum my 10 degree setting is at the conservative limit of OK. I cannot imagine when you would have it set at the other extreme.. 20 degs's pretty radical..maybe production racing ?

Be-1 has a points ignition..and is a throw back to the 1960's and before... but it works fine with have to get in there at least once a year to clean things up and set the point gap. I remove the distributor to do this. Before removing I use correction fluid to mark a reference point on the body of the dizzy and the engine that when I return it, it goes back in exactly the same place..this ensures the ignition timing does not change.

Remove the two wires that go to the body of the dizzy and the plastic vacuum hose and unscrew the distributor cap and lay it to one side, leave the plug wires connected. You will see the large rotor button in the centre.. note down the angle its at... it must go back, when you return the distributor in exactly the same place or the car will not go.. very make a sketch on a piece of paper of the rotor angle.  Withdraw the distributor may have to twist it a bit as you pull it towards you.  Now you have it out, unscrew the rotor. Use emery paper to polish the black crud off the face of the brass contacts of the rotor and the top..try to get a smooth clean finish.    Now move to the can see that rotating the shaft of the dizzy the points open and close a fraction... the instant the points open..that is when the spark for the plugs is generated...  The quality of the spark is very dependent on the condition of the points...points get dirty quickly and the gap of the points also changes over time..both adversely affecting how your engine runs. So first thing clean the face of the points by making a "wipe" of emery paper..with emery on both faces ie double it over. Turn the dizzy shaft and get the points open, now slide the emery between the points in the opening and gently rotate the shaft till the points start to close on the emery...rub the emery firmly for a few minutes on the face of the points to clean them up and to try and get a flat surface on each face. That done it is time to measure the points gap with a feeler gauge... it should be 15 thousands of an inch or its metric equivalent with points at their maximum open width.  To adjust loosen the two phillips head screws that hold the points ...make the screw towards the outer quite free but leave the one towards the middle nipped up a touch... you can use a flat blade screwdriver as a wedge to put a little pressure on the side of the points to crack it open a little....Its a process of trial and error but eventually you will get the points about right...that is when there may be a touch of drag on you feeler blade... if your blade is passing straight through the gap - it's too wide.... HAVE FUN WITH THIS it takes a while but it makes a big difference for the better when you get it right. Put it back the way it came out, and make sure you return the rotor to the same angle and line your dizzy up relative to the engine block.


I had the auto car jacked up to replace the 14" rims with a set of standard 12" wheels and noticed quite a rumble on turning the back wheels. It had well aged snow tyres on the 14" rims and I thought all the noise was tyre roar on the road...not so.   I undid the central axle nuts and took both brake drums and bearings off.  First thing I noticed was both axle nuts were very tight...they should have been finger tight...... in the light of day the outer bearings were clearly destroyed. They had been overtightend...generating great heat and grinding them to destruction


Method... remove bearings. there are two fitted in each wheel hub, a tapered bearing and a straight bearing. The front inner one falls straight out of its race. This is a tapered cone bearing.  Prise oil seal out of the rear of the hub.. very carefully, so you can use it again. Rear bearing will then fall out with gravity when you turn the hub over, Now use a drift as pictured, with large hammer and drive out rear bearing race.The bearing race is a snug press in fit, it takes a little force to get them to move. Turn over and repeat for front bearing race. Go to local bearing supplies vendor and purchase LM11949 - V4 plus race LM11810.... and L44649 with race L44610.  These are as common as muck in Australia  ( front wheel bearings for a Ford Falcon) and cheap too.

Throw the brake drum in the BBQ for a short while and heat it up a bit... drive the new races in with the help of something that fits the perimeter like a big socket..beat them in..grease bearings well ( wheel bearing grease) and  reassemble and fit grease seal.. tighten the hub nut gently and rotate the hub while progressively putting a moderate load on the nut...feel the hub nut turn a little as the bearings and or the grease seal gentle. When the hub is finally seated, back the nut right should be no tighter than a greasy hand gripping the socket directly can turn it.... that's it. the nut should be loose enough to undo by hand you don't do the hub nut with any force what so ever ! just do it up enough so that there is a minimum of movement on the shaft.  The split pin through the axle will stop the nut undoing.

Auto Trans Stuff

Be-1 auto trans is a place not visited often enough...  Those of my fanatical followers that have tried to service their transmissions are well aware it has no drain plugs..

The only way to properly change the fluid is to remove the sump and liberate 5 litres of stinking black 30 year old Dexron ATF.  While your there, undo the filter and give it a wash in turps or petrol.  My trans was prone to slip in third when it was very hot... this was a result of old fluid...and a loss of hydraulic pressure and wear in friction surfaces. You can adjust for wear and this is how you do it... Remove sump bolts working in a diagonal from the ends... fluid pours out as soon as it is loose so have a tray under it to catch the fluid.

I left the central bolts in while the fluid dripped out completely and then very carefully removed it.  there are two magnets in the base of the sump..clean them of muck. I left the gearbox to drip overnight before I continued...fluid continues to leak out for quite a while.

Nice clean sump after cleaning..note magnetic rings sitting in it.

                Valve block..this is the upperface

Adjusting Bands...This what you see after you remove the valve block

Carefully remove the filter housing....unbolt it with intelligence...the bolts are different lengths..remember where they came from.  This reveals the Valve block... remove it. only about half the visible bolts are required to be undone...there is a diagram in the free on line Haynes Micra K10 manual  that shows them.  Remove it from your face where it has fallen once undone. Now you are looking at the bands and clutches...  undo the adjusting bolt lock nut (As pictured)... tighten the bolt to 4 or 5 foot lbs... think of the force a two litre bottle of water sitting on the end of a foot (30cm)long spanner.. then back off exactly 2.5 turns. Do up lock nut.   In my auto, doing this resulted in the adjusting bolt moving forward a significant amount... which has the effect of tightening the brake band.Now throw it all back together. Make sure the gaskets are ok or get some more from Nissan or Amayama. Do not be a dickhead and strip the threads in the valve block or the filter housing.. they are done up tightly but use restraint. If you stuff them your in deep shit.

I got great results from doing this.. No more slipping and firm tight gear's very messy but straightforward and very satisfying, and is what all these old cars need. You need 5 litres of DEXRON 3 or 4.. best to have the gaskets first..sump and filter housing.

Cam Belt Replacement
This is not the straightforward job it should be. .... you need to change them sooner rather than later as they tend to snap. Be1 is a non interference engine.. I don't think it suffers catastrophic damage if a belt breaks.

First step is to be in a good frame of mind and being fresh and ready for the job. Get hold of the Micro K10 workshop manual (it is available on line) to see where the index marks are for the cam and crank pulleys and read through the complete description of the job..  Job starts with jacking up the car, then securing the car safely remove front right wheel. Unscrew and remove plastic inner gaurd, revealing the crank pulley and lower part of cam cover. The trouble starts when the engine mount has to be removed to get access to the top half of the cam belt cover.  Put a jack under the sump to support the engine and remove the mounting. To undo the mounting from the engine block there are 3x12mm bolts...2 of them are deeply obscured...and access is very restricted by the very tight squeeze between the block and the engine bay...3 fingers wide.

A long nose 12mm socket is possibly the answer... I don't have one so I use a very short socket drive peg about 1" or 25mm long, on a standard 12mm socket and turn it from underneath with a 14mm fits the peg... This combo just fits the small space available.. I have spent a very long time in the past getting these 3 off.. there is just bugger all room.   The crank pulley is next to come off.  Remove all belts first.   If it's an auto you have to lock the pulley to get the centre nut undone.. Manual can be put in 5th gear.    I locked the pulley by removing the starter and jamming the ring can also jam it by using a socket bar,through an inspection port locking the ring gear plate but this may be dodgy.. as pictured right.  undo and remove the 10mm cam belt cover bolts....leave the central exposed 13mm nut done's the cam belt tensioner


.   Use white correcting fluid to strongly highlight the index reference marks.  Remove spark plugs and turn engine over till all the index marks line up. I used the the crank pulley bolt to turn the engine over, with a lock nut threaded onto to it...screwed back into the nose of the crank ..and used a socket on it to turn the crank. If you can do it any other way, then use your own method.


You need to lock the crank from moving once you have the index marks lined up when fitting the new belt....   Next  undo the tensioner pulley lock nut till the pulley can move back against the spring  and pull the old cam belt off..  When you fit the new belt ensure the index marks are all correct.  Method is get ALL THE BELT SLACK on the tensioner side as you fit it..this involves a bit of the index marks ! it's easy to accidently move the crank or cam pulley ..they must be locked.  If you don't get the cam belt on correctly you'll lose performance or the motor will not run at all.The tensioner pulley can be held back against its spring using a little jemmy bar or screwdriver, as you fit the belt over it.  I had a lot of trouble with the tensioner spring coming off... as the pulley was pushed against the spring..the length of spring against the pulley tang shortens as the pulley moves on its arc of travel..till it just slides completely under the tang and flying off.      I had many attempts before I got the belt on correctly...4 arms would help.


                           Special Tools : the above combo for undoing engine mount brackets.          This angle grinder wrench was perfect for locking the starter ring..fitted into the teeth perfectly.

              The starter can be removed to expose the ring gear.. I placed tool 2 above, sideways into the teeth..the engine case casting went into the open jaw, and the prong

               locked it solid by hitting the case as it turned a little ... a better method than the oil filter wrench for tightening the pulley.

                                              Ducks in a row..... factory index marks are crap                                                                                      Auto has different starter than manual car

Check for wear in the tensioner bearing leading to wobbly motion. This can result in the cam belt derailing. Replace it if its loose on its shaft.    Do up the tensioner nut when you have fitted the belt. Turn the engine over by hand a few times to make sure that the index marks remain aligned and that all slack is out of the belt...undo the tensioner nut again after turning the engine over a few times so any slack in the belt is taken up, and tighten again..

To hold the crank pulley once I had it correctly located on the crankshaft keyway, I used a strap oil filter removal tool to lock it.  I then used a torque wrench to do the bolt up (65Ftlbs)  You can also lock the flywheel with a long socket extension. In the pic just forward of the driveshaft, there is an opening into the starter ring gear,, the ring gear has some slots which align with the opening..poking a bar through them will lock it... it is rather fragile and I wouldn't trust it may bend !


 Removing Radiator 

This is not the straightforward job it appears at first glance. The radiator area is very crowded and it is hard to see what retains it at its sides and base.  The radiator is held in at the top by two simple brackets, with 10mm bolts.  As it turns out, the base is simply two pegs on the lower tank located into two rubber grommets set into the chassis..... so it appears that undoing the hoses and the 10mm bolts at the top, and simply giving it a tug should pull it free..... well in my case it did, after far too much pulling.... but this is wrong. What I couldn't see is that the lower tank has a drain cock and hose..these face forward and are totally invisible, even from under the car.  The drain cock sticks out quite a bit and directly above it is some tinware that directs cooling air towards the radiator. The draincock will hit the tinware and prevent the radiator from moving upwards....I had pulled mine with enough force to twist the drain cock loose in its thread and up, deforming the air duct...very lucky I didn't snap it straight out of the lower tank. I checked the parts catalogue and did an online search for the cost of a new radiator...$800 What needs to be done is to first remove the whole lower grille assembly..... ha ha.. not so easy.   This will be held in by 3 very rusty phillips head screws at the top of the smiley mouth, that may be impossible to get out.

 What A Load of Hot Cock !... drain cock and hose visible with lower grille removed


I used an impact screwdriver and plenty of WD40 to shift mine was the only thing likely to get them moving, and again I was very lucky that this didn't bend or snap off the luggs that hold the screws.If yours are totally seized drill them out...the front grille must come off.
The drain cock is in full view with the grille out of the way.. the radiator can be drained in a civilised manner and the cock unscrewed for a trouble free exit of the radiator.  Not something that needs doing very often.  In Jan 2013 I revisited my Be1 engined done about 4,000kms since I replaced the piston rings at this stage. I had some issues with the engine idling speed and also wanted to improve the situation of the delay on the throttle when changing gears After this I did the valve clearances. These are conventional screw bolt and locknut style..not shims.
I am slow and methodical and check my clearances time and again before I am happy.  They were a trifle wide..which is Ok, but I set them to the correct clearance.  It is not OK if they are tight.

The Mystery of the Pipes The Be1 engine is covered in a maze of pipes and  servos operated by engine vacuum, open and closed by sets of electronic valves controlled by a computer to do what and when ?  This is the mystery of the Be1? Indeed  there is even a tunnel in the cylinder head that run from the exhaust port of cylinder 3 back to the inlet manifold... Observing my spark plugs I discovered that cylinder 3 runs very lean. This plug is bright white, the rest are black.  A large diaphram servo sits on the inlet manifold on 3 ..letting  pure exhaust gasses flows via the tunnel into the inlet air/petrol mixture mainly going into no 3, very seriously diluting it.   The fuel mixture seems to be tightly controlled by the computer (under the passenger seat)..the feed in variables seem to be engine temperature, and input from O2 sensor screwed into the exhaust manifold and perhaps air pressure. The engine can run badly when the O2 sensor kicks the bucket, or more often when one of the many vacuum pipes starts to leak. These exist in large quantity under the inlet manifold where they cannot be seen. To detect a leak,the easiest way to find it is to use a length of hollow tube, such as plastic fuel line. put one end in a free ear hole and feed the other open end under the manifold where the pipes take off.. and listen... if there is a leak you will hear it. By moving the pipe in your ear around you will soon find point where the sound is loudest,,the source of the vacuum leak. If your Be-1 or Pao is cantankerous with bad idle, and full of flat spots and hesitation/stalling when you drive it... IT IS PERFECTLY NORMAL. If you just keep fiddling, fiddling, fiddling eventually these problems will all go....


There is interchangeability with parts with the Nissan MICRA/MARCH Models K10 and K11  I am not certain but this may extend to radiators, front / rear suspension and steering. In Australia we only had the K11 model  .Amayama Trading Co have been a good supplier of parts in the past...

If you have been able to substitute parts with other Nissan models let me know and I will list them...     CONTACT ME HERE

Replacing CV Boots

You need a few tools but you can do this.  What you need.  17mm ring /open combination spanner. Pair of pliers, needle nose and plain. Big gutsy hammer, maybe copper face.A ball joint breaker ( simple prong type). A big socket for the hub nut..28 or 29mm ? I used an imperial one as it fitted better than my metric sockets. A tub of Castrol LMM Grease.A new outer boot.. 

  I have replaced both my CV boots at various times and have had no problem getting a generic boot that fits well. THIS IS FOR A MANUAL CAR

Why you should do this yourself ?... because you will do a much better job than most garages and you will also save a great deal of money. I took my time doing this..a couple of days, but I cleaned the whole hub up, replaced brake pads and also drained and replaced the gearbox oil and satisfied myself that I had cleaned the CV out and greased it well.

I used a REPCO off the shelf kit 100-001 that contained the boot, and grease that I didn't use as the Castrol stuff looked much better quality  The boot that fits is about 65mm at one end and 22mm at the other.



.Method: Car on the ground, remove split pin and lock ring from the centre hub nut... undo the hub nut a turn or two. Its done to about 70ft lbs so easy to crack it with a normal socket drive. loosen wheel nuts and jack car up as high as you can... use jack stands everywhere to ensure that it is safe to work under it and does not pose a safety threat. Be careful and make sure it is secured very well and correctly before working under the car.

Remove wheel... and remove hub nut. Hopefully the driveshaft will be moving freely in the hub spline. The manual shows heroic battles with massive pullers but both my driveshafts were free as soon as the nut was removed.  Next step is to free the hub up so it can swing out enough so that the end of the driveshaft can be pulled free of the hub. To do this the lower ball joint that connects the hub to the lower wishbone has to be freed from the hub.  Remove the split pin from the ball joint shaft... loosen the nut with the 17mm ring takes a bit of squeezing to get the ring onto the nut but its possible. Remove the nut entirely.   At this point I made a cradle to support the drive shaft out of an octopus strap hooked one end under the bonnet somewhere and passed it under the driveshaft and the other end on to the coil spring of the front suspension...  next I got my trusty ball joint breaker and slotted it between the hub and the wishbone..keeping the flat side against the rubber boot of the ball joint so as not to tear it... remember this ! I gave it 3 blows with a decent heavy hammer and it parted with the hub....  pull the hub away and the end of the driveshaft will now have popped out of the hub, and be hanging there on its octopus strap.

 Next step is to free the driveshaft from the gearbox end...  Get a container and place it under the point where the d/s enters the gearbox as about half a litre of gearbox oil will exit when the shaft comes out..(5speed).   Get a big flat head screwdriver or a jemmy bar and place it where you can wedge it against the gearbox and the shaft and give it a red hot go... remember you will win this may defeat you at first but get stuck in and the whole driveshaft will just pop out of the gearbox.

Exit with your driveshaft. The book says to place a dummy driveshaft into the diff as some gear can drop out...Woa !  The shaft is 22mm. I just stuck a socket extension in there but it was too small really.

The manual specifies that the axle and the CV joint are marked with a spot of paint so they are assembled exactly as they were when reassembled.. I use correcting fluid pen..mark the axle down its length about 200mm down or you can't see the dots can just make out my marks in the photo

  To remove the CV joint from the d/s I held the d/s over my bench with my left hand, and with my trusty big hammer in my right delivered a few downward  blows onto the rear of the CV and it came free and fell to the bench.   I washed the CV joint out with engine's much kinder than solvents. Swish oil about and drain it into a jar and it will carry the dirt and old grease away.  Now regrease and reboot.


Returning the CV to the driveshaft was not easy. I think the snap ring had deformed a bit.  I had to get extra lighting to see why it wasn't slipping over the snap ring... I used a small flat blade screwdriver to push the ring into its groove and soon enough it slipped over it and onto the shaft... I wasted a lot of time before doing that.

Returning the driveshaft to the car was straightforward...but remember to oil the inner bits where it has to slide through an oil seal at the diff casing..damage that and your going to have to pull it all off again to replace the seal..I put liberal amounts of grease on the seal.. take care here. I banged the end of the driveshaft with my trusty big hammer and it popped happily back into the diff.  You have to get it straight on with the diff housing before belting it... or tapping it I should say..tap..tap..tap and it will pop back home.

replace whatever oil you lost from the diff. For the manual car you have to remove the speedo cable from the gearbox and pour the GL4 80W gear oil through the hole. Pop the wheel on ..lower the car to the ground and do the wheel nuts up. They are the same size as a spark plug socket...just with one arm... so they are do not have to do them up like a Gorilla please,  then you can do up the axle nut.

Do the hub nut up with some conviction..the book has quite low torques for this so don't go crazy, but wheel bearings really don't like slackness here and hell you don't want to strip the splines either.

 Fantastic......You did a great job and saved yourself at least $150 plus if you live in AUSTRALIA.... and $39.50 for the rest of the world.A  Go have an ASAHI Super Dry BEER now.


I have a couple of Be-1's and when my daily driver alternator gave trouble I just went to my garage queen and borrowed it.. that was years ago, and I am thinking its possibly about time to get Be-1 #3 garage queen running again.

A search on ebay indicated i was in deep shit re bits for the original MITSUBISHI one (pictured)..  oh well.  Lately though I have become a big fan of U pull it. While scabbing bits for my classic SAAB 900..a model extremely well represented in all 3 U pull its in this berg.

I came across a complete 1985 SUBARU VORTEX XT  ( in really good condition too)   Yes you guessed it, the alternator in the Vortex is a perfect fit in the Be-1. The plugs are different but I cut a section of the Subaru wiring with the suby plugs and will join them into B1 loom.

  .... a real shame as this Vortex was such a tidy car that some idiot sold to the wreckers . Good luck finding a Vortex, but mid 80's Suburus in general should be a good place to look for compatible bits.

Pao's have a multi grooved pulley...and different electrical plugs .. the Pao alternators  are made by HITACH. They also bolt straight on a Be1. You need to remove the pulley and fit the Be1 one.





    About Be-1


  Be-1 The Facts



  The PIKE Cars


 Be-1 Accessories




  Brochures & Lit.




My Motorcycles